Hank Shaw

Aguachile is a cousin of ceviche, and I am using yellowtail here. You can use any fish or seafood that is safe to eat raw. Serve this cold as an appetizer or light supper. It's very good on tostadas.

As I mention above, you can sub in rabbit legs, or the thighs from chicken, turkey or grouse here. Any nice green will work besides kale, and you can use whatever nut or squash/pumpkin you have available. The dumplings can be made ahead and frozen, too.

If you have an old squirrel, which you can tell by the teeth, which are yellowy and separated, or by the ears, which are tattered, or by the feet, which look well-worn, braising is a must. Squirrels can live several years, unlike cottontail rabbits, which typically only last a year or so. This makes their meat a bit more complex and considerable denser. But an old squirrel can be tough if not braised. I almost always cook squirrels with some sort of nut sauce. Call me macabre. It's a luxurious, thick stew that cries out for crusty bread. The combination of almonds and olives is also a hit.

Follow these general instructions and you will get a lovely, moist bird. This technique also works with ruffed grouse, chickens and guinea hens. Serve with a nice white wine, some mashed potatoes and a vegetable of your choice. A good option is to cut up some carrots, potatoes, parsnips, celery root and turnips and roast them with the birds. I have a similar recipe for roast partridge, if you are looking for something a little different.

This is one of the best Sunday stews you can make because the leftovers reheat beautifully all week, for either a quick supper or for lunches at work. Don't worry if you don't have squirrel, venison and pheasant. The only true rule in burgoo seems to be that you need at least three different meats, so let your imagination wander: Chicken is obvious, as is pork. But lamb, rabbit, hare, other game birds, duck, muskrat, whatever. It'll all get hammered into submission in this stew regardless.