Khao Soi: Northern Thai Curry Noodle Soup

CURRY PASTE: Remove seeds from black cardamom pods. Toast cardamom seeds and coriander seeds in a dry skillet over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until coriander seeds darken slightly. Set aside.

In the same skillet over high heat, sear ginger and turmeric slices until slightly charred on both sides. Remove from pan.

In the same skillet, char the shallots, stirring to char more evenly. Remove from pan.

Cut dried chilies into chunks and shake out most of the seeds.

Grind dried chilies, black cardamom seeds, and coriander seeds in a spice grinder into a fine powder. Set aside.

In a heavy-duty mortar and pestle, pound ginger and turmeric into a fine paste.

Add shallots and coarse salt; pound together. Once the mixture becomes wet and slippery, add some of the ground spice powder to help absorb moisture and add friction.

Pound everything into a fine paste, then add remaining ground spices and pound to combine.

BROTH: Add ½ cup (120 ml) coconut milk to a pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add curry paste and stir for a few minutes until very thick and coconut oil starts to sizzle around the edges.

Add remaining coconut milk and stir to dissolve the paste. Add water, soy sauce, black soy sauce, and sugar.

Add chicken drumsticks and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently for 40 minutes or until drumsticks are fork tender.

Taste and adjust seasoning, adding fish sauce if more salt is needed.

CRISPY NOODLES: Cut a portion of the raw egg noodles into 4-inch pieces. Fry in 350°F oil, pressing down to keep submerged, until golden brown and bubbling has almost completely stopped. Remove and drain on paper towels.

FRIED CHILI FLAKES (optional): Add chili flakes to a small pot or skillet with just enough oil so flakes look like wet sand. Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until chili flakes are dark and smoky. Remove from heat.

TO SERVE: Boil the remaining egg noodles until fully cooked (approximately 3 minutes, but varies by brand). Drain and divide into serving bowls.

Place 1-2 drumsticks into each bowl and ladle curry broth on top.

Top with crispy noodles and chopped cilantro. Serve immediately with condiments: lime wedges, chopped shallots or red onion, pickled mustard greens, and fried chili flakes.