Khao Soi (Northern Thai Curry Noodle Soup with Chicken)

Remove the stems and most of the seeds from 20 grams of mild dried chilies, and cut them into pieces. Place them in a spice grinder and grind into a fine powder.

Take the seeds out of 2 pods of black cardamom.

Toast the cardamom seeds and 1 1/2 Tbsp of coriander seeds in a dry frying pan until fragrant.

Toast 20 grams of sliced fresh ginger, 5 grams of sliced fresh turmeric, and 60 grams of sliced shallots in a dry frying pan until charred but not burnt on both sides.

Place the toasted coriander and cardamom seeds in a spice grinder and grind into a fine powder.

Combine the ground chilies, ground cardamom, ground coriander seeds, toasted shallots, turmeric, ginger, and 1 teaspoon of coarse salt in a small blender or mortar and pestle. Blend or pound until smooth.

Scoop the thick cream from the top of the coconut milk (do not shake the can) and heat it in a casserole with the curry paste. Stir over medium heat until it sizzles and the paste becomes fragrant.

Select a casserole in which the drumsticks fit snugly in a single layer. Add the remaining coconut milk and stir until the curry paste has dissolved.

Add the drumsticks along with 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon black soy sauce, 1 tablespoon minced palm sugar, and 2 teaspoons fish sauce. Pour in just enough water to cover the drumsticks.

Cover and bring to a boil, then simmer until the chicken is tender and almost falling off the bone, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, place chili flakes in a small pan and add just enough neutral oil to moisten them. Stir over medium heat until the chili flakes darken and release a smoky aroma, taking care not to burn them. Set aside.

While the chicken is cooking, make the fresh egg noodles using fresh pasta dough (3 eggs and 300 g flour). Allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator, then roll out thinly and slice into narrow noodles.

Separate the noodles into individual portions using a scale. Make two portions per serving: three-quarters for the soup and one-quarter for the crispy fried noodles.

When the chicken is done, remove it from the broth. Take the meat off the bones and chop into bite-sized pieces; set aside.

(Optional) Break the bones in half to release the marrow. Place the bones, skin, and cartilage in a stockpot or pressure cooker and barely cover with water. Simmer for 1–2 hours (or 1 hour in a pressure cooker), then strain through a sieve. Reduce the stock if needed and add it to the curry broth.

Bring a pot with at least 1 litre (1 quart) of water to a boil for the noodles. Bring the broth to a boil, then keep warm over very low heat. Adjust seasoning with fish sauce and/or palm sugar.

Deep fry the noodle portions for topping in about 250 ml (1 cup) of neutral oil heated to 180°C (350°F) until golden, about 1 minute. Drain on kitchen paper.

Boil the individual portions of noodles in rapidly boiling water for about 30 seconds. Remove with a strainer and place in a bowl. Add the reserved chicken on top.

Cover the noodles and chicken with the curry broth, dividing evenly among bowls. Top with crispy fried noodles.

Serve with condiments: pickled mustard greens, sliced red onions, a lime wedge, and fried chili flakes.