Chicken Birria Tacos

In a large bowl, combine the dried chiles and hot water. Let them stand for 30 minutes. Editor's Tip: For more flavor, toast the chiles in a cast-iron pan for a minute or two before soaking. The heat brings out the oils and awakens a smoky taste.

In a blender, combine one onion half, the tomato, garlic, bouillon, peppercorns, thyme, oregano, cumin and soaked chiles in their soaking liquid. Puree them until the mixture is smooth. Strain it through a fine sieve.

Place the chicken in a Dutch oven. Sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Add the bay leaves and the remaining onion half. Pour in the strained sauce and 2 cups of cold water. Stir to combine everything. Refrigerate the mixture, covered, for at least two hours or up to 24 hours.

Place the Dutch oven on the stove over medium heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer it, covered, until the chicken is tender and starting to fall apart, 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours.

Remove the meat and set it aside. Fish out the onion pieces and bay leaves, and discard them. Continue to simmer the liquid, uncovered, until it's reduced by half, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, shred the chicken with two forks. When the sauce is reduced by half, return the chicken to the pan and simmer it to reheat it.

Heat a griddle, comal or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Dip a tortilla into the stew pot, thoroughly coating it with the sauce. Place the tortilla onto the hot griddle. Sprinkle with cheese if desired. Cook it until the cheese melts or until the tortilla is fragrant and crisp at the edges. Repeat the process with the remaining tortillas.

Top the tortillas with chicken. Fold the tortilla over to form a taco. Serve them with toppings and a cup of sauce for dipping.