Khao Soi (Thai Coconut Curry Noodle Soup)

Soak the chilies: In a small bowl, add dried red chilies and boiling hot water together. Let soak for 15-20 minutes.

Sauté the aromatics: Heat a cast-iron skillet or griddle to medium-high. Turn on the fan or hood. Place garlic, shallots, galangal, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, makrut, fingerroot, and turmeric root on the griddle. Use tongs to flip after 1-2 minutes when they have some browning. (Alternatively, use a sauté pan or broil.)

Make the paste: Once red chilies have softened, pull off the stems. For a milder paste, seed a few of the chilies. Add chilies, garlic, shallots, and galangal to a mortar and pestle or food processor. Pestle until a paste forms. Add remaining ingredients one by one and pestle until all are integrated. Store in an airtight glass container in the refrigerator for up to 2-3 weeks.

Sauté the khao soi paste with aromatics: Heat a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low heat and add coconut oil. Add 1-2 tablespoons khao soi paste (adjust to taste). Add curry powder, turmeric, and paprika powders.

Add coconut milk: Once the spices have browned, add 3 cups of coconut milk. Reserve the remaining cup to adjust spice level or loosen the broth.

Add chicken: Let the broth come to a low simmer and add chicken thighs or drumsticks. Partially cover with a heavy lid. Simmer for 20-25 minutes or until chicken is thoroughly cooked.

Shred chicken: Remove 1-2 chicken thighs to a sheet pan. Let cool 3-4 minutes, then shred meat from the bone using forks or tongs and add back to the broth. Stir in fish sauce and palm sugar. Keep broth on low simmer.

Cook the noodles: Cook wide egg noodles according to package directions. Immediately rinse with cold water for a few minutes and separate the noodles to prevent clumping.

Prepare crispy noodle topping: In a cast-iron pan, add about a quart of frying oil (enough to fill pan halfway). Heat to medium. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and a rack for draining. Test oil with a small piece of noodle — if it sizzles and browns, fry small bundles of thin egg noodles until caramel brown. Drain on the rack.

Assemble toppings: On a platter or in small bowls, arrange pickled mustard greens, cilantro, nam prik pao (if using), chili crisp, shallots, pickled green chilies, lime wedges, and fried egg noodles.

Serve: Place a handful of wide egg noodles in each bowl. Ladle khao soi broth over the top. Allow diners to add toppings as desired.